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Coinciding with the pop star Taylor Swift, designer Sarah Burton embarked on her Showgirl period. During her second presentation as Givenchy designer, Burton turned up the volume with collars embellished with shimmering stones across the collarbone area, luscious peach maribou feathers, a pocket-rocket cocktail dress in bold crimson leather, and supermodel Naomi Campbell in a formal tuxedo coat draped over a scant lace-trimmed bra.

A New Identity

Burton has been at Givenchy for a short period, but the longtime associate of Alexander McQueen has already established a unique persona for the house and for herself. Givenchy, the iconic residence of the actress Audrey Hepburn and the little black dress, has a pristine heritage of elegance that runs from Paris to Hollywood, but it is a smaller player as a business. Previous designers at the house had largely embraced urban fashion and functional metal embellishments, but Burton is bringing back the sophistication.

"The goal was to create something provocative and alluring and to expose flesh," Burton explained following the presentation. "In efforts to empower women, we often turn to masculine elements, but I wanted to examine female emotional intelligence, and the process of adorning and revealing."

There was covered-up allure, too, in an evening shirt in butter soft white leather. "Every woman is different," Burton commented. "At times when selecting models, a model tries on a garment and it becomes clear that she prefers not to wear heels. So I change the look."

Red Carpet Revival

Givenchy is rebuilding its presence in celebrity event attire. Burton has styled actor Timothée Chalamet in a soft yellow tuxedo at the Oscars, and Kaia Gerber in a classic ballerina-style gown of ebony lace at the Venice Film Festival.

Schiaparelli’s Artistic Comeback

The fashion house Schiaparelli, fashion’s house of surrealism, has been experiencing a revival under the American designer Daniel Roseberry. The following year, the Victoria and Albert Museum will host the inaugural UK Schiaparelli showcase, looking at the work of designer Elsa Schiaparelli and the brand she created.

"Schiaparelli is not merely purchased, it becomes a collection," Roseberry said post-presentation.

Clients of Schiaparelli require no exhibition to tell them that these garments are artistic. Art-adjacency is beneficial for business – apparel is priced like fine art, with blazers beginning around £5,000. And profits, as well as visibility, is increasing. The location of the presentation was the Pompidou Centre in Paris, an additional signal of how close this house sits with art.

Revisiting Iconic Collaborations

Roseberry recalled one of the most renowned partnerships of Elsa with artist Salvador Dalí, the 1938 “Tears” dress which will be in the V&A show. "This focused on returning to the origins of the fashion house," he said.

The torn effects in the original were painted on, but for the updated version Roseberry tore into the silk fabric itself. In both, the tears are chillingly evocative of skinned skin.

Surreal Elements and Menacing Charm

A touch of threat is present at the Schiaparelli brand – Elsa described her mannequins, with their sharp shoulders and nipped-in waists, as her miniature army – as well as a joyful appreciation for humor. Buttons in the form of fingernails and golden noses hanging as ear accessories are the visual grammar of the house. The standout feature of this event: synthetic fur created using brushes.

Surrealist elements appear across modern style. Eggshell-inspired heels – navigating delicately, get it? – were a sellout at the fashion house Loewe. Dali-esque wonky clocks have graced the runway at the house of Moschino. But Schiaparelli dominates this domain, and Roseberry commands it.

"Designs by Schiaparelli feature an intense spectacle which captivates everyone present," he said. A scarlet ensemble was sliced with a triangular panel of flesh-toned mesh that sat roughly where underwear would typically be, in a startling illusion of nakedness. The tension between wearability and theatre is a key aspect of the event.

US Talents Take on Paris

A carousel of creative director launches has brought two darlings of New York to the French fashion world. The duo Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez have moved on from their Proenza Schouler label they founded in 2002 to take over Loewe, the Spanish leather goods brand that grew into a £1.1 billion leading brand under the direction of Jonathan Anderson before his transition to Dior.

The US designers appeared thrilled to be in Paris, France. Ellsworth Kelly brights brought an upbeat pop art aesthetic to the sophisticated art intelligence for which Loewe is currently known. Banana yellow loafers dangled their tassels like the hem of Josephine Baker; a scarlet fitted jacket had the proud shiny curves of a tomato sauce container. And a party gown imitating a recently used bath sheet, fluffy as a freshly laundered bath sheet, found the perfect balance where smart creation blends with sartorial amusement.